Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.